Meeting on the Eiffel Tower in a private conference room with a view over the city. Pretty cool.
Curry-infused wheat pasta
Tuesday
Open mic night in this tiny medieval cellar where people were wall to wall, sharing seats, sitting on the floor, crammed in everywhere. Definitely a fire hazard, but the entertainment plus the appearance of a jazz flute made it well worth the risk.
Wed
Open mic night #2, The Highlander
Thursday
Working from a cafe after a successful meeting at the Louvre
Dinner at a favorite new restaurant, Au Petit Sud Ouest, where they serve only duck (a Southwest specialty), and you have toasters at your table to have warm toast w/ foie gras.
Duck leg confit with wild porcini mushrooms & potatoes fried in duck fat
Saturday
Behold, deliciousness.
A tiny olive oil shop that has one table, and barely room to squeeze people around the one table. We had a reservation for June (they are booked solid every night 6 months out), but they had a last minute opening. Goes on the list of favorite experiences.
After my first visit to Christmas markets 7 years ago, I told myself I had to come back at some point to see European Christmas markets again. I remember standing there in awe, surrounded by all the sights, smells, and sounds - spices, hot mulled wine, gingerbread, cookies, chocolate, ornaments, sparkly lights, huge cathedrals, people everywhere, every street covered & decorated...it was an experience of wintery fairy tale proportions.
I knew I'd have to make a trip to see Christmas markets in December before going home, so after lots of online research, I settled on a weekend trip to see two of the best: Brussels, Belgium & Cologne, Germany.
First stop Friday night was Brussels, with a big market starting at St. Catherine's cathedral and stretching back to the giant ferris wheel, with rows of sparkling booths in between.
After spending a good amount of time at the market, I headed to the other part of town where there were supposed to be more booths, food stalls, and decorated streets.
Little did I know, there was a massive lit-up city hall square, complete with an epic light show.
I was walking down the street (fries in hand), jumping from chocolate shop to chocolate shop, when I suddenly heard opera music blasting at full volume from the direction I was headed.
I picked up the pace, certain there was something spectacular happening, and sure enough, I rounded the corner to an amazing scene...a movie-set-looking square filled with people, including a building that looked like a castle, displaying an massive sound & light show.
Here's a quick video I took:
If you've ever seen Chasing Liberty, the Mandy Moore movie where she's the President's daughter (no, I don't OWN it or love it.), there's a scene where she's in Prague, and she rounds the corner into the main square filled with people watching an opera being displayed up on the side of a building, and she's of course surprised, amazed, and generally in joyous awe upon this discovery. Take that scene, insert in Brussels, I was Mandy Moore, exactly, down the placement of running around the corner into the square. Except I had fries in my hand because I'm a fatty. Which leads me to my next point.
The bounty of deliciousness. I'm fairly certain that the 7 POUNDS I gained over Christmas can be traced directly to this weekend of eating. Brussels is known for french fries, waffles, mussels, steamed escargot, chocolate, and beer. And I had it all! In fact I had waffles 3 times in a 12 hour period, just to be safe.
Vin chaud (hot wine) & waffles
Frites (fries)
Chocolate truffles
Steamed escargots
Belgian brew
Dating back to monks in 1074. 1,000 years? Seems authentic enough. I'll try it.
Grilled bratwurst...good looking Belgian police officer ordering bratwurst...what? Oh I didn't even notice, I mean that's not why I took this picture, it was just the bratwurst. Only.
Let's talk waffles.
My first was the famous Liege waffle, which is made by a long process involving yeast and rising and waiting and a special type of pearl sugar that caramelizes on the exterior of the waffle once it starts cooking. The brioche-like texture is similar to biscuits & heaven. I got this one topped with Speculoos cream, which is a gingerbread cookie version of peanut butter. Uh, yah. Take as much time as you need.
Are you weeping? I am.
My 2nd waffle of the evening was the classic Belgian waffle with powdered sugar.
And the 3rd was a another Liege waffle, in the morning for breakfast. Even though waffles are considered dessert in Belgium, I claimed ignorance and blamed my American roots because I had to get one more before I left. Good morning, Belgium!
Before catching my 2pm train, the one thing left to try was mussels from Brussels. I read about this great seafood stand that is always packed with locals, and people get little plates and eat it standing up outside at the counter. The Brussels specialty is "moules frites", steamed mussels w/ fries, so when I saw "moules parquet," I assumed it was, what, a packet of mussels or something...like maybe I'd get a paper cone of fries piled with mussels. Great.
Except "moules parquet" is actually raw mussels.
Yike...I...this...wasn't what...oh well. I had 3 or 4 (I'll try anything), and then envisioned myself having some sort of allergic reaction and being stuck on the train to Germany in a horrific condition (I've had unfortunate violent reactions to clams & oysters before. Picture me vomiting uncontrollably across the beautiful town of Monterosso, Italy. So you can understand why I get nervous about eating out of shells sometimes, particularly when they're raw and I've never had them before). I happily finished my other plate of fried fish goodness and left for the train station.
Since I went home on Dec. 15th, it wasn't worth buying and decorating a tree for a week or two. Luckily, Kyle & Maygan had a tree, and they were awesome enough to invite me over to decorate! Armed with a bottle of red and some hot cinnamon toast to get us in the Christmas spirit, we cranked up the Christmas tunes and had quite possibly the most fun and random tree-decorating ever.
Buckley started off the evening's ceremony by wearing the tree skirt, as is often the tradition in most American homes.
Kyle tried to figure out the best place to put the tree...
Here...
Maybe here...
Well, it's finished! Our work here is done. Merry Christmas, everybody!
Ok, let's keep going. But first, lots of dancing to celebrate the fact that we LOVE Christmas & Christmas songs & cinnamon toast & trees & ornaments & Christmas.
Oh there it is. Let's just stop here. We present to you...the Christmas tree.
Ok now we're really getting somewhere - Lights!! More celebratory dancing!
Time to get serious. Putting the star on the tree. Kyle, the honorary star-placer, stretches in preparation for the big moment.
The moment of truth...
Aww.
Family picture, everyone gather round. If this doesn't say "Christmas card", I don't know what does.
In addition to dancing, stretching, and dressing Buckley up in a tree skirt, we did yoga, rave danced, performed various interludes of Michael Flatley's Lord of the Dance, waved a vacuum in the air as a dance prop, tried to top the tree with a lemon, wrapped Kyle in Christmas lights & plugged him in. So...pretty much I gained two of the most fun and hilarious friends I could ask for by moving to Paris. And they told me that instead of moving back to Houston in 2 years, they will just alter their life plans to stay however long I'm in Paris so I can always have this much fun, in fact they signed a contract, and are therefore legally bound. C'est tres bien!
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